Ticket to Hospitality

 Day 7: Claytorlake State Park to Sugar Grove
distance: 71 mi

Day 8: Sugar Grove to Lebanon, VA over Hayters Gap Mountain
distance: 70 mi
total distance: 473 mi

It's been over a week since we started the tour and we are now close to the western border of Virginia. Thus far the trip has been defined by amazing landscapes, people with southern accents, and hills, hills, hills. Who knew that Virginia was that hilly? Why didn't anyone tell me? I am rather amazed by how well my legs have learned to adapt and recover from the continuous stress of uphill cycling. But whoever said that riding across America is more mental than it is physical is a semi-liar. Crossing Hayters Gap Mountain, the steepest mountain incline of this trip (Hayters what now?? Don't ask me, I had no idea this thing existed until I had to climb it,) was a 45 minute sweat ride. You work hard for every inch that you're moving. I had salt crystals on my arm after today's ride. No kidding.

For the past several days we have been riding parallel to the Appalachian trail and come across a fair amount of through hikers. Yes, those guys are hardcore, grungy, oftentimes bearded people, who know how to make fire just by staring at wood. But behind that massive beard, these people are friendly folk who have some amazing stories to tell. We met a couple that started their hike 5 months ago and were still going strong (despite the occasional riff spending so much time with each other, I am sure.) While on tour you quickly realize that what helps you remember days and events is often defined by the people you meet and talk to on a given day, not necessarily by the things you did (cycle and eat) or the places you saw (cows).

Both hiker and bicycle tourer have something in common... they are both adventure travelers and as such, gain access to a world unbeknownst to all other travelers. This part may sound a bit unbelievable, but it is indeed true. A gigantic 30 L pack on your back or 2 panniers on your bicycle opens doors to peoples' homes and kindness. In nearly every town that we have stopped in, people have approached us to talk to us, to offer us a refill on water, or soda or beer, or to see if we have a place to stay for the evening. They want to shake our hands, know where we are from, how long we've been traveling and where we are going. Our stories (so far not that many) are music to their ears. Quite a few of them have attempted a trip of this sort themselves, some have done it many years ago, and others just want to meet out of towners. The kindness of people has been quite amazing, to say the least. I am writing this while sitting on the bed of a guestroom in John and Patty's home. My dinner consisted of oven-baked chicken, fried rice, self-grown salad with homemade salad dressing, homemade hummus, pita bread, and a glass of wine. Oh and let's not forget the cherry pie with ice cream for desert.